One of the things I enjoy about being in another country or culture for a holiday is that I get new insights into the culture and also a new perspective on the holiday itself. While a bit delayed in recounting my second Holy Week experience in Bolivia, I would still like to share some highlights. Last year I promised a Bolivian friend of mine that in exchange for not going last year, this year I would get up for the 5am pilgrimage walk up to the Christ statue on Good Friday, and I DID! In the Catholic church, it’s customary to pray the Stations of the Cross during Lent, but especially on Good Friday as a way of remembering what Jesus went through during his suffering, death and resurrection. For those unfamiliar, there are 14 “scenes” or parts of the story that one remembers and meditates on, and we did that walking up through the hills for 2 ½ hours on Friday morning before Easter.
“Is it really time to go?” I mumbled groggily over the phone when my friend called to advise me he was at my door and I was still in bed…oops. I scurried out the door and we arrived at the starting point just in time, joining with a couple hundred people bundled up and ready to make the meditative walk. It was really beautiful and I’m so glad I kept my promise. To be trotting along with all these other normal everyday people from Cochabamba, even accompanied by police officers, through the street and then up the stone road with the sun slowly creeping its way over the ridges, I felt a wash of joy rush over me. “What a gift!” I said to my friend who looked at me confused. It’s difficult to describe but I felt a strong sense of gratitude for being able to be a part of this small simple tradition in Cochabamba. It was so unique and not something most foreigners get to experience, and that I was allowed to be there felt like an honor. At the top, people played and sang music and there was a small dramatization. Cochabamba has never looked so pretty to me in the morning than that day.
Later that morning I was invited to spend this very family-centered day with my friend Renee’s family. While in the US, Good Friday is a day of fasting and abstinence, in Bolivia we were lightly encouraged to fast until lunch and not eat too much, but in actuality it is a feast day. There are traditionally 12 courses served, but all without meat. It’s popular to serve things like arroz con leche (a warm rice and milk dish that is sweet and yummy), or fish among many options. At my friend’s house they made a makeshift grill and grilled 2 kinds of very yummy fish, which accompanied a whole plate full of vegetables. I tried my very best to eat it all and left VERY full.
Now while I’ve lived here now long enough to experience two Holy Weeks, I still had not been to a professional soccer game, so I finally made it to one a week after Easter. This is a view from my seat – it looks pretty doesn’t it?
It was a lot of fun and I hope to go back again. There are two teams in Cochabamba and people are very hard-core fans! I have often seen the herds walking down the street after the games, decked out in their jerseys and hats, so I felt like I was again getting a chance to get an insider-experience of a very important part of the culture here in Cochabamba. Just like attending a baseball, football or basketball game in the US, there was a LOT of yelling, cheering and energy.
Living in the city is convenient for events like a soccer game that I can walk to, but I sometimes wonder what my life would be like to live out in the campo (country). I got an opportunity to spend 2 separate days out in a very very small community in the country, to help out with 2 environment workshops with middle school/high school kids. I know this Peruvian sister, who has got a lot of spunk and energy, both for poor people in rural areas and for the environment so our common interests connected us and she asked me to help her out with this workshop she’d planned.
One day we talked about paper, deforestation, littering and recycling because it’s very common, even there in the country, to rip out pieces of notebook paper and throw them on the ground, and then in the river. I was struck by how shy the girls were, much more so than the girls I know through the afterschool programs in the southern zone of the city of Cochabamba. The boys were usually the ones who volunteered to answer questions or just would by default because even when prompted and encouraged, many girls just refused to talk. I tried my best to encourage them, making it not a big deal, and trying to make a fool of myself so they wouldn’t feel so shy, but I think the social upbringing is quite powerful in this respect. It made me so grateful to have grown up in Girl Scouts where I was taught self-empowerment and encouraged to take risks.
The second time I went, two girls had prepared me lunch at their house and brought it to me on a plate (these kids get lunch made for them normally by the school which is funded by a foreign evangelical church in the Netherlands) – so the fact that they MADE me food when their families don’t exactly have much, was such a gesture of kindness and hospitality, I was really touched! They befriended me of their own initiative and were so curious to hear about the United States and asked if I could take them with me. I tried to tell them good things and not-so-good things about my country and reassured them there is no place like home, but they still expressed a desire to at least move to the city of Cochabamba where there are more opportunities for work and activities in general. I’m grateful for them and their openness to welcome me and share part of their story with me.
To see more pictures, please go to:
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/July1Blog?authkey=Gv1sRgCLe2qM6em9Kk7gE# 5 Things I’m thankful for today: being invited regularly to my friend’s family’s house; having friends whom I can count on; having had the opportunity to be a Girl Scout for 13 years; the good fortune of a friend being reunited with his wife after many months of waiting for a visa; singing.
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