It was early on a Sunday morning with the Cochabamba sun shining brightly, and as we bumped along in a VW bug up and around and up some more I was anxious to arrive at our destination. With my composting and gardening partners we offered to meet with a group of neighbors who live right next to the dump of Cochabamba, in order to share with them the idea and how-to of composting and gardening with reused tires. I already appreciated where they live because of the long route to get there, but I would come to be truly surprised the more I listened to them talk about their neighborhood.
Unusual for us, we arrived a half hour earlier than planned but there were already 20 people or so waiting, as we were taking advantage of a time when they planned to meet to sign up for bug exterminations of their homes. While waiting for our agreed-upon time to roll around, I started chatting with a gentleman who was there with one of his grandkids. He asked if we were people who worked with environmental issues and I explained what we were there to do. To which he responded that simply living right next to the dump has exposed them to many environmental problems on a daily basis.
Apparently in the afternoon when the sun is very hot and the wind blows, the smell is so bad “it causes you to almost pass out”. He pointed out an elementary school to me and asked how can we expect the kids to learn well and become productive adults if they are inhaling such awful air every day? According to this gentleman the subterranean water is very contaminated and is used by people there in addition to watering crops down below. I do not know specific facts from any lab tests but he said it is ugly and smells bad, which are not good signs of healthy water. Would you want your family living in a neighborhood with that type of water?
Just that morning, while walking to the meeting, he noticed a For Sale sign on his neighbor’s home and asked why they were moving and they told him that they just cannot stand it anymore and have to get away from the dump. This got him thinking and now he is wondering whether he should move his family as well. When I asked if the dump was there when they arrived he told me it was, so in a way I can see how one would say, “but you knew the dump was there”. However, the gentleman explained to me that there used to be a different company in charge of caring for the dump and there weren’t bad smells and things were in order, but now that there is a different company in command, the problems have developed and grown worse with time.
As Thanksgiving has just passed, I would like to say how thankful I am to have running water where I live, and that I only have to boil it to drink it. There are many Bolivians who do not have running water in their homes or whose water is delivered in trucks and costs 10 times more than people who live in a different part of town have to pay to get their water. It makes me sad that something such as water, which is a human right, is not treated with the respect it deserves nor distributed fairly. Thank you God for water!!!
5 Things I’m thankful for today: catching up with a good friend over lunch; leftover Thanksgiving food; hearing my grandpa say he loves me; my dear cousin whose birthday is today; dancing with my friend’s grandpa who is one of the most joyful dancers I’ve ever come across.
Monday, November 28, 2011
Monday, November 21, 2011
Solidarity
Only recently have I come to see the depth of what this word attempts to convey here in Bolivia. I will explain with two stories. Just in the past month the cousin of a friend got sick with horrible stomach pains and vomiting and was hospitalized for quite a while because they could not figure out what she has. One day they told the family she had HIV and then the next said it was a false positive. They tested her for everything and gave her all types of drugs, which as many know who’ve been through aggressive treatment is very tough on the poor sick body, but also on the family. She’s been temporarily blind, she’s had paralysis, she’s not been able to talk, and the day that was the toughest was when they put her into an induced coma. I give this background to give you a picture of the rollercoaster ride their family has been going through. As it turns out, she has been diagnosed with chronic porphyria, http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/001208.htm , and it is the only known case in South America. This week she goes to Buenos Aires, Argentina, where they hope she can get better care.
Because really good medical care is awfully expensive, they decided on a Friday night to put together an event the next day to raise money. I arrived around 3pm and the street on which the family lives was already filled with TONS of people, umbrellas and shades to protect them from the hot sun while they sat at plastic tables eating, drinking and talking. Later on in the afternoon a musical group came to perform and then someone acted as a dj and played music on loud speakers for dancing. It was packed, and yet the many extended family members made their way to talk with everyone they knew and welcomed me in with open arms. I wish I could find words to describe what it was like watching everyone. They came together on short notice but they were THERE because they love and support the cousin/niece/friend. The reason for coming together was tragic but there was such a feeling of support and joy and love in the way they shared and passed the day. People stayed almost all day until night had come, and they kept sharing and sharing.
Several people said to me that solidarity is very important, and even though Bolivia may be a poor country, people come together when the occasion arises. “Do you have events like this in the United States? Probably not quite like this, or do you?” someone asked me. I said that I had never been to a get-together of solidarity in this manner before, but that I come from a family and a community of friends that is very giving and looks out for one another. However, I had to admit that it is different, there’s a different manner of expressing one’s “solidarity”. This particular event was very communal and accepting, which I think is what made it so special for me to witness and be a part of.
The day before yesterday was the climax of the yearly national tele-marathon which is going to benefit 5 institutions who serve kids who are other-abled and lack economic resources to assist them. A good friend of mine works at one of these institutions so I’ve been hearing a lot about and it really is remarkable the money that people give. Yet, I don’t perceive that giving money specifically defines solidarity, rather the point is giving of yourself, giving of what you have that is not of your excess simply because someone else is in need at this moment.
I am beginning to see how solidarity is an important thread in the weaving of what I like to think of as Bolivian culture and identity. Personally, any time I feel like I can identify one of the many threads in this weaving, I feel a sense of gratefulness and I am honored. The culture of a people is complex, deeply rooted in many different stories and lives, and to get to know even parts of that culture is a gift.
5 Things I’m thankful for today: good smelling clean clothes; ability to run around the lake; being accepted and welcomed by the family of my friend; witnessing the collaboration and support people give each other in times of need; the long-desired rains we’re starting to get.
Because really good medical care is awfully expensive, they decided on a Friday night to put together an event the next day to raise money. I arrived around 3pm and the street on which the family lives was already filled with TONS of people, umbrellas and shades to protect them from the hot sun while they sat at plastic tables eating, drinking and talking. Later on in the afternoon a musical group came to perform and then someone acted as a dj and played music on loud speakers for dancing. It was packed, and yet the many extended family members made their way to talk with everyone they knew and welcomed me in with open arms. I wish I could find words to describe what it was like watching everyone. They came together on short notice but they were THERE because they love and support the cousin/niece/friend. The reason for coming together was tragic but there was such a feeling of support and joy and love in the way they shared and passed the day. People stayed almost all day until night had come, and they kept sharing and sharing.
Several people said to me that solidarity is very important, and even though Bolivia may be a poor country, people come together when the occasion arises. “Do you have events like this in the United States? Probably not quite like this, or do you?” someone asked me. I said that I had never been to a get-together of solidarity in this manner before, but that I come from a family and a community of friends that is very giving and looks out for one another. However, I had to admit that it is different, there’s a different manner of expressing one’s “solidarity”. This particular event was very communal and accepting, which I think is what made it so special for me to witness and be a part of.
The day before yesterday was the climax of the yearly national tele-marathon which is going to benefit 5 institutions who serve kids who are other-abled and lack economic resources to assist them. A good friend of mine works at one of these institutions so I’ve been hearing a lot about and it really is remarkable the money that people give. Yet, I don’t perceive that giving money specifically defines solidarity, rather the point is giving of yourself, giving of what you have that is not of your excess simply because someone else is in need at this moment.
I am beginning to see how solidarity is an important thread in the weaving of what I like to think of as Bolivian culture and identity. Personally, any time I feel like I can identify one of the many threads in this weaving, I feel a sense of gratefulness and I am honored. The culture of a people is complex, deeply rooted in many different stories and lives, and to get to know even parts of that culture is a gift.
5 Things I’m thankful for today: good smelling clean clothes; ability to run around the lake; being accepted and welcomed by the family of my friend; witnessing the collaboration and support people give each other in times of need; the long-desired rains we’re starting to get.
Wednesday, October 19, 2011
The March Reaches its destination TODAY
Today marks day 65 of the Indigenous March from the Amazon to La Paz, where the Bolivian government resides (although the capital is actually Sucre) and very worn, tired, affected by the high altitude, but perseverant the march continues to its end today. A lot has happened since I last wrote and part of my hesitation to write updates is that the information changes and I’m afraid to misrepresent what is going on.
As a recap a group of now 2,000 people from an Amazon region of Bolivia are protesting against the government, via a 65 day march, that a highway be built right through the middle of their region which has been designated a national park and protected indigenous territory (TIPNIS), and it is indicated by the grey area on the map below, which is a map of Bolivia.
This map is more of a close-up with the proposed route of the highway
I received some very interesting feedback from some of you, which I appreciate! One friend compared what is going on to the movie Avatar, in which economic interests to exploit natural resources face a challenge in the community who inhabit the region defending it as having more value than any money it could produce. As a side note I really enjoyed the movie and particularly appreciated the part where the character points out that the life we have is a gift and is energy borrowed that we give back when we die, implying our interdependence and the cycle that is life. I also love the Lion King for similar reasons, but back to the topic…
Another friend noted the similarity in what is going on in TIPNIS with the situation in Alaska regarding the salmon fishery. He says an international mining company wants to grab the minerals in the water shed of Bristol Bay for so called economic stimulus of jobs, and of course creating jobs sounds good in the current state of the US, but as my friend said, we need to be careful not to be overly “self serving and short sighted”.
While the indigenous march and the debate over whether or not building the highway through the territory will bring more positive progress than harmful consequences have been a part daily life here in Cochabamba, the atmosphere changed on September 25. The marchers were approaching an area where a group of colonizers (people who moved to the TIPNIS region generally to plant coca and other crops , and live there currently, but are not originally from there) who are supportive of the President and the highway, were waiting to block the marchers from passing.
There are various reports on what happened but I understand that they were marching and some had stopped to eat, when the police, whose role is to keep the peace (understood as meant to keep the two groups from getting violent with each other), started detaining the marchers with force, using teargas, hitting, kicking etc. (this I saw in video footage). The marchers started running off to escape in the hillsides, but many were detained and put on a bus with tape on their mouths and some handcuffed. The idea was to put them on a plane and take them back to TIPNIS, but in the end other people came to block the runway and somehow they escaped.
There was major uproar in the country and internationally over the incident. Several ministers of the government stepped down because of it. Even after this the President Evo Morales still did not want to talk directly with the marchers and has held that position since the beginning, but TODAY he has agreed that he will talk with them! I will let you all know what happens.
In addition to following the TIPNIS situation, I’ve been involved in the radio programs with Franciscans International and I use the plural form because now we’ve started a second radio program. In a joint effort with the Maryknoll Mission Center of Latin America, we have a new program of 30 minutes talking about both social and environmental topics. This past Saturday we talked about decolonization since the 12th of October marks the day Columbus came upon the Americas. We played the following song by Calle 13 on the show and I really like it a lot, expressing Latin American identity in a really artistic and beautiful way. Here are some of the lyrics
Tú no puedes comprar al viento, (You cannot buy the wind)
Tú no puedes comprar al sol (You cannot buy the sun)
Tú no puedes comprar la lluvia, (You cannot buy the rain)
Tú no puedes comprar al calor. (You cannot buy the heat)
Tú no puedes comprar las nubes, (You cannot buy the clouds)
Tú no puedes comprar mi alegría, (You cannot buy my happiness)
Tú no puedes comprar mis dolores. (You cannot buy my pain)
For those of you who are Spanish speakers, I hope you appreciate the song too
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii4YlzvoOZI&feature=related
Monday was October 17th, which is the International Day of the Eradication of Poverty. We talked about this on the radio as well, because the divide between those who have enough and those who don’t is increasing. A study shows that 58% of children in Bolivia are living in poverty and 22% of those in extreme poverty. Talking about Bolivians of all ages, one report says 77% and another 60% of the population is living in poverty, which is measured based on access to basic services, education, health and quality of life. Either way, too many here and in the world.
5 Things I am thankful for today: rest; water; considerate friends; my plants that survive despite my forgetfulness; and a fleece Redskins blanket left behind by past missioners.
As a recap a group of now 2,000 people from an Amazon region of Bolivia are protesting against the government, via a 65 day march, that a highway be built right through the middle of their region which has been designated a national park and protected indigenous territory (TIPNIS), and it is indicated by the grey area on the map below, which is a map of Bolivia.
Another friend noted the similarity in what is going on in TIPNIS with the situation in Alaska regarding the salmon fishery. He says an international mining company wants to grab the minerals in the water shed of Bristol Bay for so called economic stimulus of jobs, and of course creating jobs sounds good in the current state of the US, but as my friend said, we need to be careful not to be overly “self serving and short sighted”.
While the indigenous march and the debate over whether or not building the highway through the territory will bring more positive progress than harmful consequences have been a part daily life here in Cochabamba, the atmosphere changed on September 25. The marchers were approaching an area where a group of colonizers (people who moved to the TIPNIS region generally to plant coca and other crops , and live there currently, but are not originally from there) who are supportive of the President and the highway, were waiting to block the marchers from passing.
There are various reports on what happened but I understand that they were marching and some had stopped to eat, when the police, whose role is to keep the peace (understood as meant to keep the two groups from getting violent with each other), started detaining the marchers with force, using teargas, hitting, kicking etc. (this I saw in video footage). The marchers started running off to escape in the hillsides, but many were detained and put on a bus with tape on their mouths and some handcuffed. The idea was to put them on a plane and take them back to TIPNIS, but in the end other people came to block the runway and somehow they escaped.
In addition to following the TIPNIS situation, I’ve been involved in the radio programs with Franciscans International and I use the plural form because now we’ve started a second radio program. In a joint effort with the Maryknoll Mission Center of Latin America, we have a new program of 30 minutes talking about both social and environmental topics. This past Saturday we talked about decolonization since the 12th of October marks the day Columbus came upon the Americas. We played the following song by Calle 13 on the show and I really like it a lot, expressing Latin American identity in a really artistic and beautiful way. Here are some of the lyrics
Tú no puedes comprar al viento, (You cannot buy the wind)
Tú no puedes comprar al sol (You cannot buy the sun)
Tú no puedes comprar la lluvia, (You cannot buy the rain)
Tú no puedes comprar al calor. (You cannot buy the heat)
Tú no puedes comprar las nubes, (You cannot buy the clouds)
Tú no puedes comprar mi alegría, (You cannot buy my happiness)
Tú no puedes comprar mis dolores. (You cannot buy my pain)
For those of you who are Spanish speakers, I hope you appreciate the song too
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii4YlzvoOZI&feature=related
Monday was October 17th, which is the International Day of the Eradication of Poverty. We talked about this on the radio as well, because the divide between those who have enough and those who don’t is increasing. A study shows that 58% of children in Bolivia are living in poverty and 22% of those in extreme poverty. Talking about Bolivians of all ages, one report says 77% and another 60% of the population is living in poverty, which is measured based on access to basic services, education, health and quality of life. Either way, too many here and in the world.
5 Things I am thankful for today: rest; water; considerate friends; my plants that survive despite my forgetfulness; and a fleece Redskins blanket left behind by past missioners.
Monday, July 25, 2011
Joy of Kids, Ecology in Tarija and Being a mis-fit
As I’ve mentioned before, what I “do” as mission doesn’t always have clear definitions and I think my living situation is one of those grey areas, but one I’m so grateful for. At the Franciscan social center where I have an apartment, there also live anywhere between 7 to 18 kids recovering from burns. They are not orphans, but their needs are greater than their parents can provide for, so they get help for whatever time necessary while staying at the social center, near physical therapy and doctors all the time.
I try to keep clear boundaries with them, which allows for private time but also hanging out fun time together. One night a friend and I put on a movie night in my apartment, which is often what a Spaniard who also lives in the center does for the kids, but he was out of town so I stepped in. I made popcorn on the stove and we had juice and cookies too. The kids loved it and are anxiously awaiting the next one, but in the mean time we play cards or games or dance to music.
I’m someone who loves hugs and also being around kids, so I really appreciate their presence and am grateful to have them as neighbors (well, most of the time…haha).
Through my involvement with Franciscans International, I was invited to give my second eco-theological retreat, this time in Tarija at the beginning of June.
The idea is to talk about what is the reality of the world we’re living in, in respect to the environment, ecosystems, plants, animals, water, people etc. and how our interdependence all being part of creation calls us to pay attention to how our actions or in-actions are contributing to or lessening the goodness of all. We talked about the science and reality of the environmental situation on an international level and also in Bolivia and locally in Tarija. Christianity is in the good company of many other major faith traditions that recognize divinity or God’s presence all around us and this recognition then calls us to act accordingly, with respect and care.
I was surprised to find that the majority of the group were high-school students, but a lot of them really impressed me in their interest and conviction to take action in their lives and not let what they learned stay only in words. It was quite touching to hear their reflections and appreciation for our time together. I was very humbled.
At their own request we had a competition to see which group could pick up the most trash in an allotted time in the plaza of the small town we were staying in. I really enjoyed both the young people on the retreat and the adults who helped organize it, they were so hospitable and went out of their way to make me feel comfortable and taste the local foods and drink I wanted to try before leaving the area. It was a great experience, and I have a suspicion that more invitations to give the retreat are coming, as other members of national group of Justice and Peace seemed interested at the last meeting we had.
On the note of traveling, recently I got the opportunity to return home to Virginia, where a lot of my family and many friends are. I didn’t think I would get to go back during these 3 years so it was a much appreciated visit. I got to spend time with some of my favorite people and while it helped energize me, I also felt a wave of sadness upon leaving them again. It’s such a funny place to be, because I want to be here in Bolivia, finally having built meaningful relationships and having become involved in such great initiatives and groups. Yet, at the same time my heart is divided because I want to be with people whose lives are in the United States as well.
I’m reminded of something a Society of African Missions priest told us in our FMS training, that people in mission are forever mis-fits, never really feeling totally whole or at-place anywhere. I even felt some of that after spending 6 months in Germany while I was in college, and now it’s stronger. While saying good-bye to my immediate family in the airport (all 5 of them were there, you all are the best!) they reminded me that I’m going back to people whom I know and love, not to the complete unknown, which is how it was when I left 1 ½ years ago. So true. To combat my sadness, I thought of the dear friends I’ve made, the people I work with, and the kids recovering from burns who live with me at the Franciscan social center. I couldn’t wait to run into their open arms, waiting to hug me and then ask where was the chocolate I said I'd bring them.
To see more pictures, please go to: https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/July24Blog?authkey=Gv1sRgCL7EztXE8Lal6wE#
5 Things I’m thankful for today: seeing dear friends I love very much and haven’t seen in a while; laughing really hard because of funny things my cousins’ kids say and do that I got to be present for!; spontaneous dance parties with my sisters; spending a week at the beach with lots of wonderful cousins, aunts, uncles, my immediate family and my grandpa; the people I’ve met in Bolivia who have let me in to their hearts.
I try to keep clear boundaries with them, which allows for private time but also hanging out fun time together. One night a friend and I put on a movie night in my apartment, which is often what a Spaniard who also lives in the center does for the kids, but he was out of town so I stepped in. I made popcorn on the stove and we had juice and cookies too. The kids loved it and are anxiously awaiting the next one, but in the mean time we play cards or games or dance to music.
Through my involvement with Franciscans International, I was invited to give my second eco-theological retreat, this time in Tarija at the beginning of June.
I’m reminded of something a Society of African Missions priest told us in our FMS training, that people in mission are forever mis-fits, never really feeling totally whole or at-place anywhere. I even felt some of that after spending 6 months in Germany while I was in college, and now it’s stronger. While saying good-bye to my immediate family in the airport (all 5 of them were there, you all are the best!) they reminded me that I’m going back to people whom I know and love, not to the complete unknown, which is how it was when I left 1 ½ years ago. So true. To combat my sadness, I thought of the dear friends I’ve made, the people I work with, and the kids recovering from burns who live with me at the Franciscan social center. I couldn’t wait to run into their open arms, waiting to hug me and then ask where was the chocolate I said I'd bring them.
5 Things I’m thankful for today: seeing dear friends I love very much and haven’t seen in a while; laughing really hard because of funny things my cousins’ kids say and do that I got to be present for!; spontaneous dance parties with my sisters; spending a week at the beach with lots of wonderful cousins, aunts, uncles, my immediate family and my grandpa; the people I’ve met in Bolivia who have let me in to their hearts.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Holy Week and Time in the Country
One of the things I enjoy about being in another country or culture for a holiday is that I get new insights into the culture and also a new perspective on the holiday itself. While a bit delayed in recounting my second Holy Week experience in Bolivia, I would still like to share some highlights. Last year I promised a Bolivian friend of mine that in exchange for not going last year, this year I would get up for the 5am pilgrimage walk up to the Christ statue on Good Friday, and I DID! In the Catholic church, it’s customary to pray the Stations of the Cross during Lent, but especially on Good Friday as a way of remembering what Jesus went through during his suffering, death and resurrection. For those unfamiliar, there are 14 “scenes” or parts of the story that one remembers and meditates on, and we did that walking up through the hills for 2 ½ hours on Friday morning before Easter.
“Is it really time to go?” I mumbled groggily over the phone when my friend called to advise me he was at my door and I was still in bed…oops. I scurried out the door and we arrived at the starting point just in time, joining with a couple hundred people bundled up and ready to make the meditative walk. It was really beautiful and I’m so glad I kept my promise. To be trotting along with all these other normal everyday people from Cochabamba, even accompanied by police officers, through the street and then up the stone road with the sun slowly creeping its way over the ridges, I felt a wash of joy rush over me. “What a gift!” I said to my friend who looked at me confused. It’s difficult to describe but I felt a strong sense of gratitude for being able to be a part of this small simple tradition in Cochabamba. It was so unique and not something most foreigners get to experience, and that I was allowed to be there felt like an honor. At the top, people played and sang music and there was a small dramatization. Cochabamba has never looked so pretty to me in the morning than that day.
Later that morning I was invited to spend this very family-centered day with my friend Renee’s family. While in the US, Good Friday is a day of fasting and abstinence, in Bolivia we were lightly encouraged to fast until lunch and not eat too much, but in actuality it is a feast day. There are traditionally 12 courses served, but all without meat. It’s popular to serve things like arroz con leche (a warm rice and milk dish that is sweet and yummy), or fish among many options. At my friend’s house they made a makeshift grill and grilled 2 kinds of very yummy fish, which accompanied a whole plate full of vegetables. I tried my very best to eat it all and left VERY full.
Now while I’ve lived here now long enough to experience two Holy Weeks, I still had not been to a professional soccer game, so I finally made it to one a week after Easter. This is a view from my seat – it looks pretty doesn’t it?
It was a lot of fun and I hope to go back again. There are two teams in Cochabamba and people are very hard-core fans! I have often seen the herds walking down the street after the games, decked out in their jerseys and hats, so I felt like I was again getting a chance to get an insider-experience of a very important part of the culture here in Cochabamba. Just like attending a baseball, football or basketball game in the US, there was a LOT of yelling, cheering and energy.
Living in the city is convenient for events like a soccer game that I can walk to, but I sometimes wonder what my life would be like to live out in the campo (country). I got an opportunity to spend 2 separate days out in a very very small community in the country, to help out with 2 environment workshops with middle school/high school kids. I know this Peruvian sister, who has got a lot of spunk and energy, both for poor people in rural areas and for the environment so our common interests connected us and she asked me to help her out with this workshop she’d planned.
One day we talked about paper, deforestation, littering and recycling because it’s very common, even there in the country, to rip out pieces of notebook paper and throw them on the ground, and then in the river. I was struck by how shy the girls were, much more so than the girls I know through the afterschool programs in the southern zone of the city of Cochabamba. The boys were usually the ones who volunteered to answer questions or just would by default because even when prompted and encouraged, many girls just refused to talk. I tried my best to encourage them, making it not a big deal, and trying to make a fool of myself so they wouldn’t feel so shy, but I think the social upbringing is quite powerful in this respect. It made me so grateful to have grown up in Girl Scouts where I was taught self-empowerment and encouraged to take risks.
The second time I went, two girls had prepared me lunch at their house and brought it to me on a plate (these kids get lunch made for them normally by the school which is funded by a foreign evangelical church in the Netherlands) – so the fact that they MADE me food when their families don’t exactly have much, was such a gesture of kindness and hospitality, I was really touched! They befriended me of their own initiative and were so curious to hear about the United States and asked if I could take them with me. I tried to tell them good things and not-so-good things about my country and reassured them there is no place like home, but they still expressed a desire to at least move to the city of Cochabamba where there are more opportunities for work and activities in general. I’m grateful for them and their openness to welcome me and share part of their story with me.
To see more pictures, please go to: https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/July1Blog?authkey=Gv1sRgCLe2qM6em9Kk7gE#
5 Things I’m thankful for today: being invited regularly to my friend’s family’s house; having friends whom I can count on; having had the opportunity to be a Girl Scout for 13 years; the good fortune of a friend being reunited with his wife after many months of waiting for a visa; singing.
Living in the city is convenient for events like a soccer game that I can walk to, but I sometimes wonder what my life would be like to live out in the campo (country). I got an opportunity to spend 2 separate days out in a very very small community in the country, to help out with 2 environment workshops with middle school/high school kids. I know this Peruvian sister, who has got a lot of spunk and energy, both for poor people in rural areas and for the environment so our common interests connected us and she asked me to help her out with this workshop she’d planned.
The second time I went, two girls had prepared me lunch at their house and brought it to me on a plate (these kids get lunch made for them normally by the school which is funded by a foreign evangelical church in the Netherlands) – so the fact that they MADE me food when their families don’t exactly have much, was such a gesture of kindness and hospitality, I was really touched! They befriended me of their own initiative and were so curious to hear about the United States and asked if I could take them with me. I tried to tell them good things and not-so-good things about my country and reassured them there is no place like home, but they still expressed a desire to at least move to the city of Cochabamba where there are more opportunities for work and activities in general. I’m grateful for them and their openness to welcome me and share part of their story with me.
To see more pictures, please go to: https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/July1Blog?authkey=Gv1sRgCLe2qM6em9Kk7gE#
5 Things I’m thankful for today: being invited regularly to my friend’s family’s house; having friends whom I can count on; having had the opportunity to be a Girl Scout for 13 years; the good fortune of a friend being reunited with his wife after many months of waiting for a visa; singing.
Thursday, June 16, 2011
Chugging along from fall to winter
Cochabamba is one of the most contaminated cities here in this part of the world and people here are slowly becoming more conscious of it. This year for the first time the mayor’s office has decided to have 3 pedestrian days instead of only 1, with the hope that eventually we will move to 1 a month. Pedestrian day consists of not allowing any vehicles or motorcycles to move about unless it is for emergency purposes and the streets are opened up to people, animals, bikes, skateboards and whatever else you can think of. I really like pedestrian day a lot (it always occurs on Sundays) because there’s a feeling of community, of commonality and being in touch with where we live that is refreshing.
There were lots of people selling food, plants, “stuff,” as well as organized games and recycling. For example, a paper company set up a tent to receive paper in exchange for toilet paper. It was very calming to walk all around the city without fearing for a car charging past you as if you had no right to the streets as well. It was a good day (my second pedestrian day so far here in Cochabamba) and it would be nice if we could institute something like this in the States…maybe one day?
As you may recall from past blogs an effort I’ve been involved in since before I got out of language school is encouraging families to compost and then use the compost to have a small garden. Last year with my friends/partners-in-crime Reneé and Pablo, we got involved with a project at the university agricultural department, where the agricultural engineers help us learn how to manage a square foot garden best and we help them explore different ways to go about gardening and help harvest vegetables. Because of this connection, the engineer invited us to be a part of his project’s tent at the agricultural fair that lasted for 3 days, so we got to show off our tire composter and also how we use the tires for raising worms to make their own compost.
Recently we made a square foot raised garden out of plastic bottles and another one out of tires, in an attempt to lower the costs of having a garden to make it more accessible for families with fewer resources and also to recycle material that would otherwise be sitting on the side of the road or in the dump.
As a small reminder for how incredibly common it is to be around trash the majority of one’s day in Cochabamba, one day I went to Tiqti Sud where the parish San Carlos has a center with a chapel, after-school program, dentist and space for retreats. I was struck by how pretty it looked as I was walking along the dirt road to get there, but then by the contrast of all the nasty trash people dump outside.
Granted, they have limited trash service…you really have to make an effort to get your trash taken to the dump, so I can understand how the convenience and lack of service has made disposing of trash in this manner a habit. My hope is that one day this will not be the case, but that requires both people caring enough and money from the local authorities to provide more thorough trash management.
In my family’s neighborhood in Virginia, a private company comes to pick up trash two days a week and another day of the week the same company comes to pick up recycling, which includes many different kinds of materials. For a long time, my parents would drive their trash to the dump because they didn’t have this service. In the central city of Cochabamba, we take our trash to a dumpster in the street and those outside the city center either have to deal with it themselves (ie burning it or dumping it outside their house or in the streets) or run outside when they hear the trash pick-up truck go by early in the morning.
No matter where you live, there is no easy option for recycling. There are several organized groups of individuals who go through the streets and the dumpsters picking out items that can be sold to a company that recycles them. On my way home one day, I came across this woman with her 8 year-old daughter collecting and separating recyclables as a way to get an income.
I chatted with them for a while and the daughter told me that she was only there that day because the most current street blockades prevented school from being in session so she could help her mom out.
I knew what she was talking about because I had to walk many extra blocks due to these blockades and since I had my camera with me, I took pictures of what I came across on my walk home.
There was a group of public health workers striking because I think they wanted more benefits, but to be honest, I can’t remember any more why they were striking and blockading but it was bothersome for the rest of us in trying to get around. This is a fairly common occurrence.
Switching gears to something that I really enjoyed, my host family from language school invited me over for dinner to celebrate my host-mom’s birthday, and it was a really nice time.
The two daughters are around the ages of two of my actual sisters, so it feels especially comfortable being with them. I’m so grateful I was placed with them while I was in language school and they continue to be my family in Bolivia. We took a picture of me with my Bolivian sisters and the boyfriend of one of them.
5 Things I’m thankful for today: warm blankets at night; delicious mandarina fruit that is in season; playing cards with my kid neighbors in the social center; sunny weather that gives me energy; watching a 4-year-old and his older brother eagerly pick spinach with me from the after-school program garden.
As you may recall from past blogs an effort I’ve been involved in since before I got out of language school is encouraging families to compost and then use the compost to have a small garden. Last year with my friends/partners-in-crime Reneé and Pablo, we got involved with a project at the university agricultural department, where the agricultural engineers help us learn how to manage a square foot garden best and we help them explore different ways to go about gardening and help harvest vegetables. Because of this connection, the engineer invited us to be a part of his project’s tent at the agricultural fair that lasted for 3 days, so we got to show off our tire composter and also how we use the tires for raising worms to make their own compost.
In my family’s neighborhood in Virginia, a private company comes to pick up trash two days a week and another day of the week the same company comes to pick up recycling, which includes many different kinds of materials. For a long time, my parents would drive their trash to the dump because they didn’t have this service. In the central city of Cochabamba, we take our trash to a dumpster in the street and those outside the city center either have to deal with it themselves (ie burning it or dumping it outside their house or in the streets) or run outside when they hear the trash pick-up truck go by early in the morning.
No matter where you live, there is no easy option for recycling. There are several organized groups of individuals who go through the streets and the dumpsters picking out items that can be sold to a company that recycles them. On my way home one day, I came across this woman with her 8 year-old daughter collecting and separating recyclables as a way to get an income.
I knew what she was talking about because I had to walk many extra blocks due to these blockades and since I had my camera with me, I took pictures of what I came across on my walk home.
There was a group of public health workers striking because I think they wanted more benefits, but to be honest, I can’t remember any more why they were striking and blockading but it was bothersome for the rest of us in trying to get around. This is a fairly common occurrence.
Switching gears to something that I really enjoyed, my host family from language school invited me over for dinner to celebrate my host-mom’s birthday, and it was a really nice time.
Monday, May 23, 2011
Pre-Lent in Bolivia
I don’t know quite how time goes by so quickly, but I think that’s a sign that I’m living life fully, which is good, so please forgive me for telling these stories I’m about to share a bit late. While in the United States, Easter is a pretty big deal, in Bolivia, it’s the pre-Lent and Lenten season, especially Holy Week (the week prior to Easter) that are particularly meaningful and involved.
Before Lent starts each year there is a GIANT festival in the folklore capital of Bolivia, called Oruro, which is also known for its many mines. This celebration has been going on (transformed over the years of course) for over 2000 years and has been deemed one of the “Masterpieces of Oral Heritage and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO.
According to Wikipidia “the carnival marks the Ito festival for the Uru people. Its ceremonies stem from Andean customs, the ancient invocations centering around Pachamama (Mother Earth, transformed into the Virgin Mary due to Christian syncretism) and Tio Supay (Uncle God of the Mountains, transformed into the Devil). The native Ito ceremonies were stopped in the 17th century by the Spanish, who were ruling the territory of Upper Peru at the time. However, the Uru continued to observe the festival in the form of a Catholic ritual on Candlemas, in the first week of each February. Christian icons were used to conceal portrayals of Andean gods, and the Christian saints represented other Andean minor divinities. The ceremony begins forty days before Easter.” Often a car leads the way for each group, adorned with silver platters and an image of the Virgin Mary.
I decided it was high time I went to experience first-hand this famous and often-talked-about festival, so I left on Friday March 4th for Carnival in Oruro! We were a group of roughly 8 another franciscan missioner, two Franciscans and four other Bolivians. We got the pleasure of receiving wonderful Franciscan hospitality in the church/convent there which is very unlike most people’s very expensive experience of going to Carnival in Oruro.
On Friday we went to visit the Church of the Mineshaft or Sanctuaria del Socavon. They say that in 1789 a mural of the Virgin Mary appeared miraculously in a mineshaft of a silver mine in Oruro and since then the festival of Carnival has been celebrated in honor of the Virgin Mary. Here is the painting of the image of Mary in the church. On Saturday the bishop began the pilgrimage procession followed by TONS of dance groups that kept going until long after I headed for bed around 1am.
I really enjoyed being able to be a part of the Carnival celebration. There is just so much uniqueness, so much joy and pride that people have in their costumes, in their dances and that the observers have in their fellow Bolivians. I loved being amidst the chanting, singing, cheering “Beso! Beso! Beso!” (Kiss! Kiss! Kiss!) at the supposedly most attractive dancers who dance Caporales. The variety and creativity in the costumes is just remarkable. Although, I would NOT want to wear those boots dancing for 4 km!
On Sunday we went back to the Church of the Mineshaft to go down into the mine and also to get a little more observing, taking pictures and dancing in. I hadn’t realized that everyone who dances on Saturday dances the whole route again on Sunday. Impressive!
Two days later is what Americans call “Fat Tuesday” or the day before Lent begins. I got the pleasure of being invited by my friend to her house for a ch’alla, which is an Andean custom still practiced regularly even in the city. It consists of a small fire and an offering basicly blessing mother earth or Pachamama out of respect and thanksgiving for what she gives us, asking also for her blessing in the coming year. Fat Tuesday is a holiday and a day generally spent with family and a ch’alla in one’s home instead of out in public. My friend made the typical spicey sauce by crushing peppers and onions with big stones. I was given coca leaves to chew, a home-made tobacco cigarette and sitting in a circle we chatted and passed each other the chicha, a traditional drink made out of corn. Before drinking the first time we each poured a little of the chicha in a circle counter-clockwise (I think that’s right) around the fire as a gesture of respect for the earth. Before drinking, it’s respectful and expected that you cheers/invite someone else and then once you’re done, you serve them and the ritual continues...
After eating a meal we went back outside and played a game trying to throw coins into a hole from a distance, of course continuing to share chicha while taking turns playing. The game reminded me of horseshoes but on a much smaller (but still challenging) scale. It is hard not to feel united with the group all drinking from the same gourd and continually inviting and sharing with each other the same drink (don’t worry, no one got drunk as it was non-alcoholic chicha). I enjoyed the opportunity to be let in to this family’s ritual and share in the day with them. While Andean in its roots, this is a pre-Lent custom and from my perception I think the Andean and Christian ways mend quite well, as there is a clear recognition of God’s presence all around and an honoring of the divine among us.
I hadn’t quite got enough dancing and celebrating in so I attended Cochabamba’s carnival parade celebration just a few days later. I went with kids from the youth group at San Carlos and it was a good day, but I got TOTALLY soaked with water walking back to my bench in the stands. They asked me if I’d fallen in the river...it was bad. The “Corso de Corsos” as they call it here in Cochabamba is much less organized and slower than the Carnival procession in Oruro, but I still had a good time. There were also less traditional dances and costumes which the military groups presented.
We ended the night going down from the stands into the street and dancing with everyone else, while taking pictures with the dancers. I must say I’ve never celebrated so much before Lent in my life. It’s one of the parts of the Bolivian culture I really enjoy—the dedication to the various traditional dances, music and customs. What a gift to take part in it!
To see more pictures from Oruro, Fat Tuesday and Corso de Corsos, please visit the following links:
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/OruroCarnaval?authkey=Gv1sRgCMeZyrvxt939fA#
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/FatTuesdayChAlla?authkey=Gv1sRgCKWo3ZibgOef6QE#
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/CorsoDeCorsos2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCNTwxtr6_KamhwE#
5 Things I’m thankful for today: seeing a little toddler carrying her baby doll in a plastic bag substituting for an aguayo (cloth women use to carry their children on their backs) on her back (so cute!); playing hearts and laughing with friends yesterday; the improvement in health of several people I know; my sisters who give me so much joy and love; the kids here at the social center where I live who give me hugs and make me laugh every day.
Before Lent starts each year there is a GIANT festival in the folklore capital of Bolivia, called Oruro, which is also known for its many mines. This celebration has been going on (transformed over the years of course) for over 2000 years and has been deemed one of the “Masterpieces of Oral Heritage and Intangible Heritage of Humanity” by UNESCO.
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/OruroCarnaval?authkey=Gv1sRgCMeZyrvxt939fA#
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/FatTuesdayChAlla?authkey=Gv1sRgCKWo3ZibgOef6QE#
https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/CorsoDeCorsos2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCNTwxtr6_KamhwE#
5 Things I’m thankful for today: seeing a little toddler carrying her baby doll in a plastic bag substituting for an aguayo (cloth women use to carry their children on their backs) on her back (so cute!); playing hearts and laughing with friends yesterday; the improvement in health of several people I know; my sisters who give me so much joy and love; the kids here at the social center where I live who give me hugs and make me laugh every day.
Saturday, April 2, 2011
Argentina
“Oh. My. Gosh. That car just stopped for me to cross the road!”
That is how my trip to Chile and Argentina began. In January I got the opportunity to meet up with my aunt and uncle and another couple who are cousins of theirs in Argentina. In order to get to Mendoza, Argentina, I decided to go by bus to the coast of Chile, to a town called Iquique. That is where the cultural changes started to hit me.
First, cars actually respect pedestrians and let them cross the road with ample space. There was less trash lying around. There was soap in the bathroom. There were hot and cold water handles in the shower instead of having an electric shower head. There were a LOT less stray dogs. I ate really good fish and ceviche (because I was by the ocean!). The list goes on, but that gives you an idea for now of some of the differences I first encountered.
After getting off the bus in Iquique around 3pm, I was very happy, having left Cochabamba at 9pm the night before, not having been able to sleep much on a very bumpy overnight ride, and spending 4 hours at the Bolivia-Chile border (where I had to pick out all the raisins from the granola I had made because Chile is super strict about what you can bring into their country). Before getting on another, but MUCH nicer luxurious bus, for a 24 hour ride to Santiago, I ate good fish and went in the ocean!!!
I only spent a hot minute in Santiago because the next morning I left with my aunt and uncle for Mendoza, Argentina. We spent a couple days in the city of Mendoza (as opposed to the region Mendoza), where we walked through many beautiful plazas and toured two wineries and a small olive oil factory.
The day we were supposed to make the 7 hour drive to Las Leñas, a ski resort south of the city of Mendoza where we would stay for about a week, my ATM card got stuck and remained in the machine. We ended up leaving, just much later than expected and I was feeling a lot of things, a mix of frustration and amazement. It was maddening that there was no way to get the card back because it was the weekend, and it was amazing that despite the loss of my only immediate access to money, I was not gone for because my aunt and uncle were there…but how many people in the world have a support network who will back them up when they literally have no more access to money? I’m very grateful for my aunt and uncle taking care of me in this situation and grateful that there are people to help me when I have nothing left. Quite a humbling moment. Yet! Also maddening that a whole lot of people in the world do not have such security through absolutely no fault of their own.
Returning back to our trip. We got to the hotel at Las Leñas, which was rather abonded since it was summer, not winter. It was a comfy small apartment with a hot plate to cook on…and cook on it we did! Maybe it took 3 hours to cook lentils and maybe we ate late every day, but it was a fun experience overall! If there were a prize for best meals cooked on a hot plate, I would give it hands down to my four traveling companions.
We spent the next 4 days exploring the mountains and other beautiful parts of our surroundings. I loved being there. There were beautiful rivers, water holes, goats, open country and more open country.
On Monday January 24th we drove into Malargüe and visited a little museum and convention center, which was a highlight for me because the man who gave us a short but thorough tour was just so kind and proud of his center. We got to talking about lots of things including the secret to his popcorn, which he shared with me and I will share with you (but don’t ever tell him please) – oil, sugar and coconut essence. Mmmmm!
Wednesday we spent with Paco. Now, in order to see some of the most beautiful parts of the mountain range, one needs a 4-wheel-drive vehicle, which is where Paco came in. We packed a picnic in the morning and loaded into his Land Rover, and my seat was in the back so I had quite a good view.
At our first stop he showed us all these shell fossils demonstrating how these mountains were at one time ocean floor…incredible. Next he stopped at a small stream humbly, in an almost unnoticeable way, going down the hillside. He got out, unscrewed his water bottle and filled up. Oh my goodness, was that water tasty.
Paco told us the story about the plane that crashed very near to where we were, back in the 70’s (the survivors ate the flesh of some of the other passengers who had died) and showed us the grand Valle Hermoso (beautiful valley), where he has gone skiing and on excursions countless times in his life. This river used to be public but a foreigner bought it as an investment, because as many are predicting, the wars of the future will be about fresh water access.
However we were still able to drive up to it to give David a chance to fish and also us a chance to eat lunch, at the end of which Paco pulled out a lovely bottle of wine from underneath his seat. Hey, can’t pass up an opportunity to drink wine in Argentina!
The next three days involved my travel back to Cochabamba but not without some one-of-a-kind experiences and conversations along the way. I spent another night in Mendoza city, enjoying the amazing peaches, lit-up water fountains and my first tango lesson a park.
Argentina intrigues me with its very visible European influence (both in architecture and physical characteristics of the people…having come from Bolivia, I was shocked on a daily basis to see people with such lighter features), its parking lots that are called “playas” (or “beach”), lots of women wearing shorts, men greeting each other with kisses on the cheek (not just to women, which is how it is here in Cochabamba).
The bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago, Chile was good with some pretty views of the Andes as we crossed through them. I have to say though, I was happy to finally get back to Cochabamba. It was a good trip and I want to go back to Chile when I can actually visit it a little more than looking at its coast from a bus window…we’ll see what the future brings.
To see many more pictures of my first experience in Chile and Argentina, please go to the following link https://picasaweb.google.com/nora.pfeiffer/ChileArgentinaBlog?authkey=Gv1sRgCNGxhI_ts676Qw#
5 Things I’m thankful for today: time to write and reflect; communication with friends; chai tea; being able to walk to work this morning and along the way stopping and chatting with someone (you know, that feeling of comfort in being somewhere where people know your name); an uncomfortable situation that has improved.
That is how my trip to Chile and Argentina began. In January I got the opportunity to meet up with my aunt and uncle and another couple who are cousins of theirs in Argentina. In order to get to Mendoza, Argentina, I decided to go by bus to the coast of Chile, to a town called Iquique. That is where the cultural changes started to hit me.
First, cars actually respect pedestrians and let them cross the road with ample space. There was less trash lying around. There was soap in the bathroom. There were hot and cold water handles in the shower instead of having an electric shower head. There were a LOT less stray dogs. I ate really good fish and ceviche (because I was by the ocean!). The list goes on, but that gives you an idea for now of some of the differences I first encountered.
I only spent a hot minute in Santiago because the next morning I left with my aunt and uncle for Mendoza, Argentina. We spent a couple days in the city of Mendoza (as opposed to the region Mendoza), where we walked through many beautiful plazas and toured two wineries and a small olive oil factory.
Returning back to our trip. We got to the hotel at Las Leñas, which was rather abonded since it was summer, not winter. It was a comfy small apartment with a hot plate to cook on…and cook on it we did! Maybe it took 3 hours to cook lentils and maybe we ate late every day, but it was a fun experience overall! If there were a prize for best meals cooked on a hot plate, I would give it hands down to my four traveling companions.
At our first stop he showed us all these shell fossils demonstrating how these mountains were at one time ocean floor…incredible. Next he stopped at a small stream humbly, in an almost unnoticeable way, going down the hillside. He got out, unscrewed his water bottle and filled up. Oh my goodness, was that water tasty.
Paco told us the story about the plane that crashed very near to where we were, back in the 70’s (the survivors ate the flesh of some of the other passengers who had died) and showed us the grand Valle Hermoso (beautiful valley), where he has gone skiing and on excursions countless times in his life. This river used to be public but a foreigner bought it as an investment, because as many are predicting, the wars of the future will be about fresh water access.
The next three days involved my travel back to Cochabamba but not without some one-of-a-kind experiences and conversations along the way. I spent another night in Mendoza city, enjoying the amazing peaches, lit-up water fountains and my first tango lesson a park.
The bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago, Chile was good with some pretty views of the Andes as we crossed through them. I have to say though, I was happy to finally get back to Cochabamba. It was a good trip and I want to go back to Chile when I can actually visit it a little more than looking at its coast from a bus window…we’ll see what the future brings.
5 Things I’m thankful for today: time to write and reflect; communication with friends; chai tea; being able to walk to work this morning and along the way stopping and chatting with someone (you know, that feeling of comfort in being somewhere where people know your name); an uncomfortable situation that has improved.
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